Another Move - Heidelberg To Wiesbaden

Sorry that I haven't been writing much lately. It's not because of my usual excuse which is I have been traveling too much. It's because we moved. Again. If you are thinking that we just got settled in Heidelberg, you're right. We had only lived in Heidelberg for 11 months when we had to trek the 90 kilometers north to Wiesbaden. Even by Army standards, that is a quick. We moved (and all of the US Army in Heidelberg) back in July, but we are just starting to feel settled.

I didn't feel settled for awhile because we got to do this. Again.

And this. Again.

Actually, we didn't do it. The very efficient and kind German moving company did all this.

We just watched. And some of us did less than watch. Some of us napped.

After all the packing and such, we moved here.

And it looks pretty much the same as where we lived in Heidelberg (more lovely Army housing). And then we got to unpack. Again.

We didn't choose to do this. No sane person would choose to move twice in 11 months. The whole reason for the move is that some Burgermeister (mayor) and some Army general didn't see eye-to-eye about where to build some airstrip in Heidelberg. I think it went kind of like this.

General - "I think you should let me block off a road and build an airstrip here."
Burgermeister - "No. I zhink zhat you should do vhat I say and build it over here."
General - "No. I want it here."
Burgermeister - "Too bad. I don't."
General - "Well, maybe the US Army should just leave Heidelberg."
Burgermeister - "Vhat do you mean maybe?"
General - "Oh no you didn't!"
Burgermeister - "Yes! I did!"
General - "Okay, then we'll go!"
Burgermeister - "So go!"
General - "I am!"
Burgermeister - "Good!"
General - "Bye!"
Burgermeister - "Double bye!"

From what I hear, that is pretty close to how it went down. And the crazy thing is, is that neither the Burgermeister nor the general were working with the city of Heidelberg at the time the close down happened. They had both been moved to other positions. But because of the wheels set in motion by these two masters of diplomacy, the American Army left Heidelberg after being there for 66 years. My husband used to work in a building where Nazi troops were headquartered and stationed. (Read more about that HERE.) It is the end of an era.

The move also means that these four kids here had to start at a new school today. Again.

  It also means meeting new people and making new friends. Again. And that is an again that I want to say. Every where we have lived we have met amazing people who have become friends, and then more than friends. They've become like family. Let's hope that we are as lucky in Wiesbaden as we've been everywhere else.

Until the next move, Army.

 

Have you had to move a lot? What are tips and secrets you have used to get you through a move?

Nazis, Saints, And Monks In Heidelberg - Philosophenweg

School is finally out for summer! We've been freed! And by we, I really mean me. We all know who keeps the finely oiled machine of homework and school attendance and notes going. That's right fellow moms, raise your hands. Now that we've been pardoned for the summer months, we are able to go out and explore more and do things we didn't have as much time for. We started our summer break with a hike up the Heiligenberg, on a path called the Philosophenweg, or Philosopher's Way. 

Almost directly even with the Alte Brücke, or Old Bridge, in Heidelberg on the north side of the banks of the Neckar, is the start of the path Philosophenweg. It starts out as a narrow stair case that climbs between gardens on the hill side. Don't even think about trying it with a stroller. It also might not be for your tiny kids. It's 3 kilometers to the top. There is a road that you can take to the top called Mittlerer Klosterweg.

The narrow pathway joins a hillside road and you continue north until you reach the trail head.

Most of the time you are hiking in what feels like a leafy green tunnel. But every now and then, the trees break and you are rewarded with sweeping views of Heidelberg below you.

When you reach the top of the Heiligenberg, or Mountain of Saints, you reach Stephanskloster, a monastery that was founded in 863 in an old Celtic fortress. In 1094 AD they built their own monastery. 

The monastery was abandoned in the 1600's and all that remains are the foundation walls.

In 1885 a tower was built out of the remains of the monastery. Now why would they ever build a tower here?

This is why. Because it offers a great view of the castle across the way. Also, 130 years ago there weren't as many trees and you got a great view of the Neckar River. You could watch out for those sneaky French.

A little further up the mountain you come to more modern architecture.

This is the Thingstätte, or the Nazi amphitheater. It was built in 1934 for rallies to whip up support from the youth of the nearby Heidelberg University. It is rumored that it was also built as a place of worship by the Nazis. It didn't escape anyone's attention that they chose the "Holy Mountain" on which to build their theater. Cult like rituals were said to take place here, focusing on the Nazi belief in "Blood and Soil," which is based on pure ethnicity, the descent of blood, or ancestry, and the soil which you cultivate or live on. The Nazis thought that German soil held a mystical power, and therefore the people who lived and took care of that soil must be special too. And from that ideology sprang thousands of horrors.

The stadium seats of the Thingstätte.

Further up the mountain, (the hike gets better! Don't think I would leave it on Nazis, what a downer) you reach the pinnacle, the Michaelskloster, or Monastery of St. Michael.

This is what is left of the Monastery of St. Michael. It was abandoned in the 1500's. 

Look at this cute window...

And look at this cute girl...

You know why she's smiling? Because we just did this together-

Sorry boys and Minkie Dog, you're all locked up. 

Don't feel too bad for them. This dungeon was clean and well lit. Look. It's not like there were skeletons hanging by shackles on the walls or anything.

It was soon time to go. Minkie Dog had stolen my granola bar off of the bench and eaten it (bad dog!) and the kids were getting tired.

We walked back down the hill into the Altstadt and I was happy.

It takes so little to make me happy, after all. Comfortable shoes on my feet, a backpack on my back, and beautiful scenery to complete the day.

Tchüss,

Kelly

What little things make you happy?

Hometown Heidelberg - Germany

We only have about month left in Heidelberg before we have to move north, to the Wiesbaden-Mainz area. The United States Army is withdrawing its presence in Baden-Württemburg and consolidating its forces through out Europe. Heidelberg is on the list of bases set to close. 

One of my friends wanted one last visit to the Altstadt  before she moves back to the States this week, so we woke up early and visited downtown on a beautiful Saturday morning. 

I recently read that my travel guru, Rick Steves, said NOT to visit Heidelberg. He thinks it's touristy and not that great. Oh Rick, don't write us off yet. I took some pictures of some my favorite little spots in Heidelberg and maybe you can decide for yourself.

After wandering the side streets we came out in the square in front of the Heiliggeistkirche, or Church of the Holy Spirit, where vendors were setting up their booths for the day. It was turning out to be an absolutely beautiful day in Germany. My friend lamented about how sad she was to leave after calling Heidelberg her home for three years. I felt a little sad too. I have to move next month, and although I'm not leaving Germany, there is just something special, something magical, about Heidelberg. There isn't anywhere else like it.

Tchüss,

Kelly

What do you think? Do you think Heidelberg is worth a visit? Should we tell that Rick Steves to go stuff it?

Speeding In Germany (And Getting Caught)

Germany is known for its love of speed. Just saying "autobahn" makes some people unconsciously start making "vroom-vroom" sounds under their breath. Their eyes glaze over upon hearing the words "No Speed Limit" and visions of rounding corners at over 100 mph fill their head. Yes, the autobahn is great. But a fact that people don't often mention is that while the autobahn is full of speed loving demons, roads in and around towns tend to have lower speed limits than in America. My husband and I have been caught speeding in and around Heidelberg several times since we moved here. But it's not what you think. Polizei don't enforce the speed limits. You can blaze right by them on a surface street (most of the time) and they don't give you a second glance. How are we getting caught then?

Ladies and Gentlemen, may I introduce to you the all knowing German Speed Camera. Also known as Satan around my house. Don't the two circles look like eyes? Staring you down. Daring you to speed. Boring straight into your soul and saying, "I veel get you."

The German Speed Camera never misses. It always gets you. Always.

How hard is it to drive the speed limit? Really hard, actually. Back home in America, deep in the mountainous/desert states of the west where I called home, places were spread out. Grocery stores and shopping malls were several miles away and what better way to get there quicker than to go over the speed limit by a couple of miles. I have found since coming here my comfortable driving speed is around 40 mph. When I zone out while I drive, I always settle right around this speed. It's really not so fast. But in Heidelberg, fast is all relative. Let me bring you up to speed on German traffic law (pun intended).

There are three things you need to know. Outside of city limits, the speed limit is 70 kilometers per hour (43 mph) or 100 km (60 mph). Inside city limits it is 50 km (31 mph). And in Altstadts (old towns) or the twisty, little cobblestone roads that are the heart of almost every German town, the speed limit is 30 km (18 mph). Not too hard. Many times, the speed limits aren't marked, just the town limits are so you better know your rules. Here is more on German traffic law.

Now you see my problem. If I comfortably drive at 40 mph (64 km) in town, I am going over the speed of 50 km by 14 kilometers per hour. Yikes. As you may have guessed, I am very familiar with the ramifications of speeding in Germany.

The problem all starts when I am innocently driving down the street when all of a sudden! A bright, orange light temporarily blinds me. This would be the flash illuminating my face. 

Although I haven't seen my pictures, I am sure I look something like this most of the time.

Or this.

What. That flash is really bright.

So I've been flashed. What happens now? I wait. Three, four, sometimes even five months before my lovely letter (ticket) from Stadt Heidleberg shows up, in German, and tells me how much I owe to them for speeding on their fair streets. I am up to four. Or is it five?

My first was a total set up. We had been here two weeks and we only had my husband's car. A turbo Saab. I was finally feeling more comfortable driving (even though I didn't have my license here yet, shh, don't tell!) and was letting the Saab really feel itself. When... FLASH!

The set up is this. On the street into town, Speyerer Straße, there are multiple signs that look like this.

This is the actual sign from Speyerer Straße leading into Heidelberg. It lets you know, "Hey, go 70 km. Just do it!" So I did. And then some.

The problem is this.

Right after the 70 km sign above, this sign appears. This lets you know that you have crossed the town boundary into Heidelberg. I told you what this means. It means you now have to drop to 50 km. The signs are maybe 30 meters apart. And then right after this sign is Satan, I mean the German Speed Camera. I got FLASHED here twice. What a trap.

The next time I was flashed I was merging off of the autobahn on the 656 into town. I was going the obligatory 70 km in this zone when Matt told me to pass the guy in front of me because we were running late. I go around the slow car and speed up to 73 km when FLASH! Yep. Three little, kilometers (1.8 mph) over will get you a ticket. Germans are hella serious about their speed limits.

I also got flashed driving away from the American hospital after I broke my thumb by slamming it in my Volvo car door (who said Volvos were safe?) When this FLASH! happened I may, or may not have let loose a string of profanities. And maybe cried. And called my mom and told her I hated it here. Maybe.

I am finding that I can't talk my way out of camera tickets here the way I could talk my way out of a ticket from a police officer when I got pulled over back in the States. I was legendary. I was pulled over at least ten times and each time I got away with no ticket. Ah, the good ol' days.There just ain't no sweet talkin' a camera.

So the next time you are driving in Germany, and every single person on the road is driving 5 km under the speed limit, watch out for the FLASH! cause it will get you. Each and every time.

Tschüß,

Kelly*

*Queen of the FLASH!

Der Früling in Heidelberg

Der Früling is just around the corner. Who or what is der Früling? It's the spring! The season, not the creaky things in beds. It has been a cloudy and cold winter in Germany and spring is definitely trying to take hold. 

If only Mother Nature would cooperate. I have decided though, that Mother Nature is a cruel and vengeful witch when she gave us one week of sunshine and temps above 50F° and then took it all away and replaced it with clouds and a biting cold wind from former East Germany. So that's what we get for tearing down the wall, huh? Cold wind? Thanks. Thanks a lot.

It is Good Friday today so everything is closed up tight and the roads are empty.

See?

After running a quick errand, I saw how deserted town seemed and so I took a quick drive around Heidelberg. Streets that are usually packed with bikers and pedestrians had become ghost towns. The sky was mostly cloudy, but the sun kept trying to peek out and so I walked along the Neckar and enjoyed my city.

The river was slow and lazy today, meandering down from villages higher up in the canyon and sliding quietly by me.

The river was so calm that these two guys were able to do this.

I walked along the river and noticed across from me daffodils had sprung up along the banks.

Bunches of crocus had erupted in formerly all green lawns.

The clouds were getting thicker and the air still had a chill of winter about it, but everywhere you looked it was undeniable that spring was fighting its way into our little corner of Germany.

I stood under the bridge, waiting for the sun to come out one last time (it didn't) so I could a picture of the river with the sun sparkling off of it. When I finally realized the clouds were here to stay I looked up and saw I was right under the old gate tower. 

To millions of people all over the world, Heidelberg will just be that place where they had an amazing vacation. Not me. It will be that place where I lived for a year. Where I walked, and ate, and got lost, and turned the wrong way on Einbahnstraßes (one way streets), and looked for parking, and made friends, American and German. And lastly, where I started to think, "hey, I can do this. I can live in Germany." Because for awhile there, I thought I couldn't.

I walked back to my car and passed tourists getting on buses.

The streets had been fairly empty, all except for these guys. Apparently they didn't get the memo that Germany shuts down Easter weekend. 

Just like spring was slowly working its way through Germany and taking hold, Germany was slowly working its way through me. And taking hold. I drove home thinking about no matter where I move to next or where I go in this world, I will always have been a Heidelberger at one point in my life. 

Which means I will never have to go in here.

Tschüß,

Kelly*

*Heidelberger du jour.